I do like standing by the open doors and watching the world go by on Indian trains.

Delhi

Whilst on the train from Goa I was told that Delhi would be unrecognisable from my previous visit seven years ago. So naturally I was excited as I arrived to see the change. What cock and bull! Delhi is just as broken as it ever was! Yes it has a brand new metro, which makes getting around a thousand times easier. But even that looks as if it falling apart. However I did enjoy my day there. I saw a few of the sites, and drank far too much coffee at Connaught Place, a place I guess one could describe as Delhi's equivalent to London's West End. Plenty of cinemas and fashionable shops, the aptly named Piccadelhi London bar. Also a place where I received a wonderful proposition. As I stood outside one of the cinemas a rather tall middle aged Sikh gentleman walked up to me and said "You have big Cock". I ignored him, he then repeated "you have big cock" and added "8 to 10 inches". My pace quickened.

After my brush with romance I went to see the Parliament, India Gate and to Chandi Chowk, the heart of Old Delhi, and a place so utterly chaotic it is impossible to describe. Beggars, traders, citizens, dust, noise, fumes, excrement, rubbish, cows, dogs, cyclo rickshaws, auto rickshaws, traffic, all fighting over every square centimeter as if it is their last breath. Which in the choking environment it may well be, and for one elderly beggar I noticed laying on the pavement I think it was. "India" exclaimed and perhaps explained a passing man. I moved on. Not a lot one can do really.

After a failed attempt to find the Jama Masjid (big mosque built by Shah Jahan I visited last time, it is very beautiful), which involved a scary but fun walk through very narrow and ultimately dark streets avoiding motor bikes going far too fast I returned to Pahar Gang (area near New Delhi trains station famous for having many cheap hotels) and my hotel to collect my things before heading to Nepal.

Anjuna to Arambol

After a very relaxing week in Anjuna I packed my bags and headed north to Arambol. I chose the north end as it looked the most lively. The beach itself is 4km long, with Mandrem to the south. Just a short walk along a rocky path is a very quiet section of sand where I have now set up base. It is perfect, quiet at night but restaurants are near. One criticism of Arambol is the rather large pool of ditch water/sewage that collects at the north end. The ditch runs onto the beach where it is then blocked by a sand bank. This pool is drained during low tides as the fishermen dig a trench to let the water escape (to the sea, nice). However during the recent full moon and high tides waves would roll over the bank and into the pool, thus considerably expanding the niceness a great distance along the beach, and to the edge of many beach side restaurants.

Party wise it is still quiet. Although strangely I have not been that bothered. I am happy drinking Lemonanas (an ice lemon and mint drink) and sitting in my hut listening to music. What parties there are are tame, with the same music as at Anjuna. I feel that Goa's days as a hedonists retreat are over. I think the beach parties in Europe are better. However it certainly is a romantic spot, and I see many happy couples enjoying the sun and restaurants whilst generally being annoying and in love!

Although I say that hedonism is on the wane here, drug tourism still is very popular. Arambol, as far as I have seen, does not have the same police presence as Anjuna. The bars waft of pot and LSD is very easy to come by. Not that that really bothers me. But I have found topics of conversation limited to how good various stuff is from various locations, which to a non user is of no interest.

I have also managed to scare myself silly on Goa's roads. The roads are generally good, a huge improvement on 7 years ago when I was last here. But the driving skills have not. I think I must have aged a decade or two as I stared numerous oncoming lorries in the radiator as I chugged along on my little Honda.

Turning bourgeois.

I have purchased 1st Class AC tickets for my train ride to Nepal, the top of the 5 tier system that India Rail uses. I usually travel 2nd Class Sleeper, the 4th tier. I have never traveled first class anywhere on anything before, I wonder what it'll be like..?

Monkey!

The view through the door of my hut.

More Sand!