Delhi - Gorakhpur - Kathmandu

I departed Delhi for Gorakhpur, a medium sized city near the border with Nepal. After 15 or so hours on the train I felt that a nights rest was needed. The next day I planned to go straight to the Nepalese border, but a mix up with buses meant that I ended up confused and somewhat lost at the Ramabhar Stupa in Kushinagar, the cremation site for Buddha. After realising what had happened I had a wander, took some photos and contemplated that perhaps this is a sign that I should give up my atheism and convert to Buddhism. I then saw a pretty girl walk past and realised how desperately I wanted a beer which quickly brought me to my senses.

A return journey to Gorakhpur and another journey to the border finally brought me to where I wanted to be. After completing formalities I crossed into Nepal and wondered if I should stay at the border town or take the night bus to Kathmandu. I took the bus. This was a mistake. I had already spent a good 6 or so hours tootling randomly about North India before I got to the border. And as I sat utterly cramped facing another 10 hours of pain I began to regret my decision. Buses in this part of the world tend to move v...e...r...y slowly and stop often, and the stops are often long. I normally do not mind this but on this journey it made me feel quite claustrophobic and very grumpy. With no room to move, a metal bar from the seat in front pressed against both knees, hard seat and a low roof that banged my head as we went over bumps I settled down to the long night.

When dawn arrived and I noticed the suburbs of Kathmandu outside my window I was utterly delighted. Kathmandu is lovely. Dusty, dirty and very polluted but I like it all the same (although my chest, throat and nose disagree). From visiting various Stupas (I think I'm Stupad out), Royal Palaces (the wing where Crown Prince Dipendra shot members of his family has now been demolished), museums, historic squares, general walking about and visiting an old friend who was coincidentally on holiday in Nepal I have been busy and happy. One surprising thing that I have noticed about Kathmandu is how QUIET it is at night. I can stand on the roof garden of my hotel during the small hours and hear almost nothing. Perhaps the odd dog bark but that's about it. For the centre of a capital city I find this surprising and a pleasant moment of calm after the hustle and bustle of the day.

During my stay here former Prime Minister G. P. Koirala passed. He was 85, had just been released from hospital looking very sick with respiratory problems and was at his daughters house. The state funeral was scheduled for the day after his death (21 March) at Pashupati Arya Ghat on the banks of the Bagmati River. Being curious I thought I would visit. Crowds were immense. I arrived late morning to be told that G. P. Koirala would be cremated at 2pm with crowds of 1 million expected. I doubted this figure when told but as the day grew older I started to believe. At about 3 ish I grew hot, hungry and tired and decided to leave. G.P. Koirala was cremated at 7pm after resting at state in the National Stadium and then being taken through the streets of Kathmandu to Pashupati Arya Ghat so crowds could give their last respects.